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The Easy Way to Shape, Define Asian Eyes or Any Shape of Eyes

*Post originally written by Olivia J on The Unknown Beauty Blog.*

Long ago in makeup land, eyeshadow meant exactly that creating shadows on the eyes for depth and illusion.  Now, eyeshadow is the general term for any color and any color will color the eye area.  I am all for that and love to play with eyeshadows but as I mentioned before, I am all about how eyeshadows can create illusions.  And, I need all the illusions possible since I am getting closer to old age!

On my eyes I am showing how shading the eyes or in this case one eye to show the difference, can create the illusion of depth.  I am not saying this is the only proper way to apply eyeshadow.  On my other eye you will see the "fashion" application or the way your hand may follow the bone structure.  That is great, experimenting is fun.  I am not the eyeshadow police and I am not going to scold you for doing it the fashion way.  I just want to show you the difference.

Take a look at the first picture, the left side has been shaded with a satin matte taupe.  (Actually, it is a darker brown to show some difference in depth.  In a tutorial you will see how a matte taupe works and how it pictures.)  This is the reason why everyone should have a matte taupe or a color that is at least two shades darker and cool toned if you have darker skin.  I apply the color on the side of the nose just  halfway and up to the curve of the browbone.  I also apply a thick line on the bottom lashline.  This will make dark liner appear less harsh.  I also apply the shadow on the side of the eye which is important because this will separate the eye area from the rest of the face or the cheekbone area.  Make sure to blend to get rid of the harsh lines.  The end result should just be a naturally looking shadow.

The second set of pictures shows how and where the crease color is applied with and without the shadows.  On the left you can see from the side, the color stops pretty much in line with the end of the top lashline.  The right side is probably the usual way it is done.  You just allow the end of the brush to hit right above that cheekbone and stop.

The third picture I skipped some steps.  I blended the color a bit and added a shimmery lid color.  I also show the difference between the winged liner application.  On the left I want to lift the eye so I apply the wing of the liner up to where the bone creates the crease.  The right shows how it looks when it follows the lashline and outside the eye area.  Nothing is wrong with this look BUT if you are maturing like me and your eyes are beginning to droop in this area, you will notice this wing will not fly!

In the fourth picure, I smudged the end of the liner a bit and made a "v".  Now, on the left the "v" is much smaller but it still creates some depth.  I also added some eyeliner to my top lashline.  On the right, I smudged a much larger "v" which is actually where the shadow color should have been applied.

The last picture shows the finished look.  The look on the left gives that illusion of depth by separating the front or lid area from the rest of the area.  Remember, you are three dimensional and a crease alone defines just the flatness of the face but to create depth you have to think of the sides of the eyes!  The right side shows the usual method which for me doesn't work feel comfortable with anymore because it widens or flattens my eye area which isn't good for me since I am flattened and old and not to mention sagging!

So, next time you feel your shadow doesn't look right due to the sudden realization to mature eyes OR if you just want that illusion of depth no matter what age.  Try this method.

I have also included a more in depth tutorial on this method below.

Shading, Shaping, Contouring, and Defining the Eyes

I have eliminated the steps on what products have been used.  I will just mention what colors I have used.  I will also leave out the details of how I did my winged eyeliner and such because I covered that many times in many posts.

Shading the eyes can create that illusion of depth and also separate the eyes from the rest of the face which is important especially since everything is in high definition.

1-Here are my eyes prepped and primed.

2-Apply the taupe or contour color on the outer side of the eye.  Make sure the color is a matte or satin matte.  This has to look natural and not like some pretty cosmetic color.  3-From the side you can see it is pretty much in line with the angle of my bottom lashline.  Or it should just separate the area of your cheekbone from your temple.  Get it? You are separating the cheek area from your eye area!

4-Apply on the browbone that usually starts to curve into the nose and stop at level with the tear duct or wear your nose is the skinniest.  5- Apply a thick smudged line on the bottom lashline.  Now, remember since this is a taupe  or a shadow color, it will really be undetectable as an eyeshadow but will work to create the illusion of depth.

6-The application areas.  7-Blending the color.  8-Blended.  See how it is just a slight depth of color? 

9-Apply a base color (peach, ivory, whatever) from lashline to browbone.  You can barely see the taupe that I applied in pictures which is the way it should be but in real life it is slightly visible and the base color should be applied BETWEEN these two shadows.  10-Apply the crease color (orbital ridge).  I applied a cocoa brown.  Notice how it doesn't lower onto the side of the eyes.  It is actually starting right after the "shadow" area.

11-See from the side where it ends? 12- Blend.  13-Blended.

14-For the lid color I apply a shimmery light blue.  15- From the side you can see the color does not go any lower than needed.  You also can't see the taupe from the pictures which is what makes taupe the ultra natural no-makeup color!

16-I apply the same blue on the bottom lashline on top of the taupe which gives the color some depth. If I used a dark color, the harshness of it would be softened instead.  17-What it looks like so far.

18-This is the angle of how I put on my winged liner.  19-From the front it may look funny but that can be filled in or eyelashes can be applied.

20- I fill the area in since I will smudge it later.  21& 22-What the wing looks like at different angles.

23-Apply the same color on the outer third of the bottom lashline and softly apply to the rest which really disappears when it reaches the inner corner of the eye.  24-I can keep it this way but I smudge it for a softer look.  25-Smudged.

26-I apply black liner close to the lashline but when I reach the end, I slightly lift it up leaving a gap between my lashes and the liner.  Virtually undetectable since the area has been smudged with a dark color previously.  27-I smudge just a touch on my bottom lashline.

There you have my finished look!  You can sees the taupe creates that natural depth which really makes the eyeshadow look more natural since the actual eyeshadow colors aren't compensating for the shape or depth of the eyes.

Hope this tutorial helps somewhat.  If you have any questions just email.



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