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Reconstruction Zone: Shaped to Define Eyes

*Post originally written by Olivia J on The Unknown Beauty Blog. If you see this post elsewhere, it has been stolen.*

For many eyeshadow application can be a straightforward approach which is the simple approach of applying highlighter, crease color, and lid color.  As mentioned in my last post, your eyes consist of what you see in front and the sides.  They are three dimensional just like your face!

Don't Think of Eyeshadow This Way!

The Middle Ground

Unlike painting where you start out with the background, eyeshadow is simpler if you start out with the middle ground or the orbital ridge.  I won’t spend time explaining this anatomical structure because I have covered it many times.

Middle Ground

Determining the middle ground defines, divides, and contours the eyes because the sides of the eyes, both inner and outer, are inclusive.  Therefore, the background (brow bone and highlighting) and foreground (lid and eyeliner) are easily created. 

Since the middle ground does so much in one simple session of color, a good matte taupe is needed to look as inconspicuous as possible.

Foreground (Lid)

The lid is what I consider the foreground because it frames the eyeballs. I think the foreground is one of the most misunderstood areas of the eye.  Most of you will see this area, depending on the shape of your eyes, as a place for a simple application of lid color and eyeliner.  Yes, but no. 

The lid area contains about 1/3 rd of the side of your eye which lead to the side of your face.  You need to pay close attention to yellow area.


If you follow your lash line to line your eyes, look what happens.

Don't Follow the Lashline

You need to forget about the end of your lash line!!!  Eyeliner can lift and open up the eyes if applied properly.

Lift the Lashline

The lid, if you noticed is much higher than you would suspect.  It really is better to go up to the orbital ridge because when your eye muscles relax, the eyeshadow will lower.


Background - Don't Think This Way

You may think if you highlight the brow bone, you will lift your eyes.  Actually, if you do that you are just highlighting.  The lid area opens up the eyes while the orbital ridge creates the illusion of framing.  The brow bone or highlighting is what blends the different planes of the face together.  This allows continuity of the anatomical structure of your eyes and face—a seamless blend.

Think This Way

The end result will be similar to these eyes.

Change - The Results

You can see how much the lid or foreground is more open giving space.  This opens up the eye area.  The liner stays within the lid area.  This is how eyeshadow should look.  And, this is how Aldona got her many looks from the same tutorial.  And, here she is in all her glitter glory!


For me, the shape of the eyes and eyeshadow application is a like a puzzle.  Each piece doesn’t make sense because it isn’t the entire picture.  Yet when each piece is put together, it has this flow or pattern creating the big picture!

Do you get it? I know it is tough.  You really have to reprogram your brain but once you do, you can do what Aldona did -- become your own makeup artist!  (I think I have created a monster!)

*Special thanks again to Aldona from Working Beauty.*

Read by the Intelligent! Uncredited, copied, and plagiarized by the idiots!
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